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Substitutions OK in green chile soup

The recipe for Cream of Green Chile Soup was the first one I saw when I flipped open the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission's new cookbook, A Celebration of Conservation: 100 AGFC Recipes (for details about the book and how to order, see Tidbits on this page).

The headnote described the soup as having a "velvety texture and a zesty taste that's sure to soothe and warm the soul."

With the day's high temperature hovering near 40 degrees, I decided the soup would be perfect for dinner.

Don't let the specialty ingredients scare you off. Although the flavor will be different, there's no need to make a trip to the specialty store unless you want to. The soup will be just as tasty made with what you find at your regular grocery store.

First up is oregano.

Cookbook authors tend to break oregano down into two categories: Mediterranean and Mexican. But like most plants, it isn't that simple. As with tomatoes, apples or chile peppers, there are literally dozens if not hundreds of varieties of oregano. And each has a different flavor. None is superior to another. It's simply a matter of personal taste.

Adding to the confusion in the case of Mexican oregano, there are two distinct plants that go by this name, according to Ian Hemphill in The Spice and Herb Bible. One is a card-carrying member of the oregano family. The other is more closely related to lemon verbena.

So I say, when a recipe calls for Mexican oregano, as does this soup, use whatever kind you like or have on hand. Will the recipe taste differently if you use a different kind than I did? Probably. It will likely taste differently if we use different brands of chicken stock or different varieties of chile peppers. That's OK.

Next is crema Mexicana.

Crema Mexicana or Mexican crema is essentially the Mexican version of creme fraiche. Creme fraiche is a French cultured cream that is tangy like sour cream, but slightly thinner, richer and heat-stable, meaning it does not curdle when boiled.

You can substitute sour cream, but be careful to watch the heat and make sure the soup doesn't boil. Or you can make your own: Combine 2 cups cream and 6 tablespoons full-fat buttermilk or sour cream. Cover and let stand at room temperature 12 to 24 hours or until thickened. Stir, re-cover and chill for at least 8 hours before using. Will keep, refrigerated, for about 10 days.

Cream of Green Chile Soup

12 fresh mild green chiles such as Anaheim or poblano (I used a combination)

1 tablespoon butter

1 large sweet yellow onion, chopped

6 cloves garlic, peeled

1 teaspoon Mexican oregano OR Mediterranean oregano or marjoram

4 cups chicken stock

1 (15-ounce) jar crema Mexicana or 2 cups homemade crema Mexicana, sour cream or creme fraiche

Fresh cilantro

Lime wedges

Heat broiler or grill.

Roast peppers, turning frequently, until skins are charred and uniformly blistered. Place roasted peppers in a zip-close bag for 10 to 15 minutes. Peel peppers; remove and discard stems, seeds and membranes. Chop and set aside.

In a stock pot or Dutch oven over medium heat, melt butter. Add the onion and saute until tender. Stir in garlic and oregano; cook 1 minute. Add chiles and chicken stock; bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes.

Transfer mixture to a food processor or blender and puree until smooth. Return to pot. Stir in crema. Cook over low heat until heated through; do not boil. Serve garnished with cilantro and lime wedges.

Makes about 8 servings.

Recipe adapted from A Celebration of Conservation: 100 AGFC Recipes from the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission

Food on 01/07/2015

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