Boneheads: What a catch!

The CollinsDictonary.com definition of piri piri: a hot sauce, of Portuguese colonial origin, made from red chili peppers.

Our definition of piri piri: yummy yummy.

Unlike co-workers who have traveled to Lisbon and sampled the real deal, our first encounter with Piri Piri Chicken was at the new Promenade at Chenal location of Boneheads, an Atlanta-based fast-casual chain specializing in the aforementioned chicken and grilled fish. It's the second franchise in Arkansas (the first opened in Bentonville last year).

Is Boneheads' Piri Piri Chicken authentic? I have no authority to say. (Of course, must one have traveled to Mexico to assess Chipotle?)

But I can say it's quite awesome. As is the fish. As are the sides.

We were pleased with everything we ordered at the counter and had delivered to our tables inside the cheery, serviceable space where bold accents and bright plates pop against blue-gray walls and tables. It's a perfect place for a quick dinner before a movie or after shopping or when one needs a decent fish fix but not enough to get out of one's yoga pants. It's west Little Rock's more suburban, orderly answer to downtown's Flying Fish, only not as lively, and not as crowded (at least not yet).

Consider Boneheads upscale fast-casual. Sure, diners select items from paper menus/a menu board, pay up at the register and fetch their own drinks at the tea and Coca-Cola Freestyle station (wine and beer weren't yet available when we visited). But meals come out on genuine plates, there is real flatware (that you have to get yourself, but still ...) and friendly employees stop by to offer drink refills and extra napkins.

And the moderately priced menu ($2.99 for a single fish taco up to $12.99 for the priciest fish entree with a topping and two sides) is more classy than we have come to expect at such eateries.

Boneheads offers an impressive inventory of grilled fish that can be served in salads, tacos, sandwiches or as entrees (with or without various fish toppings) -- ahi tuna, mahi mahi, salmon, amberjack, rainbow trout, tilapia and catfish. Piri Piri Chicken is available as appetizer tenders, in tacos and as a half-chicken entree. Also on the menu: burgers, limited fried fare (catfish sandwich, shrimp) and some grilled skewers.

There are regular sides that come with entrees (sold individually for $1.99). And there are premium sides ($2.99), including asparagus, steamed broccoli, sweet potato fries and a side salad (Caesar, house or Greek). Swapping a regular side for rice costs 50 cents; a premium side costs 99 cents.

Kids can choose chicken tenders, fried fish or grilled chicken (all $5.49), served with a juice box and regular side.

Our first meal happened to fall on a Lenten "fish" Friday, and we felt we'd hit the Catholic lottery, as we shared two appetizers: the Boneheads Shrimp ($7.99), a nice amount fried shrimp with a slightly spicy, creamy sauce that reminded us of Bonefish Grill's Bang Bang Shrimp; and the Crispy Calamari ($6.99), respectable rings of fried calamari, with a sweet Thai chili sauce. Both, served with a scoop of slaw, arrived as did all our Boneheads fare on vivid Fiesta plates.

The Char-Grilled Shrimp Skewers ($10.99 for two skewers; $4.49 per additional skewer) featured nicely spiced grilled shrimp served with a lemon wedge and a zesty remoulade for even more flavor. The seasoned rice was actually enjoyable, and not just the plate-filling afterthought it is at so many places. For a second side, the cilantro slaw -- made with cabbage, carrots, cilantro, green onions and Asian dressing -- was lighter and more interesting than traditional style.

A Mahi Mahi Sandwich ($11.99) featured a fine, large filet of grilled fish bigger than the brioche bun upon which it perched, as well as lettuce and tomatoes. Need a sauce? Request remoulade or choose from one the Piri Piri sauces, available on the tables (and for sale): Lemon and Herb, Medium, Hot, Extra Hot and Piri BBQ. Seasoned fries made a fitting side.

The zippy Black Beans and Corn topping nicely accented the already satisfying salmon entree ($12.99), served with rice and a second side (in this case, slaw). Other fish toppings include Cucumber Dill, Pineapple Salsa and Piri Piri Mushrooms.

Though a friend said she wished her appropriately rare ahi tuna entree ($12.99) had a little less connective tissue, her overall impression of the meal that she ordered with the Piri Piri Mushrooms topping, grilled sweet potatoes and slaw: "Spicy but not painful. Zingy, even. Punchy. Zippy, pizazzy, zesty, wow!"

The Piri Piri Chicken Tacos ($8.99 for a two-taco combo with side, individually $2.99) -- tortilla bundles of chicken, cilantro slaw and spiced sour cream we ordered with a side of the black beans and corn -- were tasty, although they didn't really allow the chicken to shine.

Those who really want to experience Piri Piri Chicken need to order the Half Chicken ($10.99), flame-broiled and served with choice of sauce, rice and a side. We ordered this as a takeout item and were impressed not just by the delicious, moist chicken cooked in the dynamic Medium sauce (a blend of Hot and Lemon and Herb), but by the care the kitchen put into packaging the order -- the chicken, rice and grilled zucchini -- with regard to neatness and heat. The food was still quite warm when it reached its destination 20 minutes later.

The employees at Boneheads are definitely not boneheads.

Weekend on 03/19/2015