Q I recently read your reply to a reader's question concerning grass under a shade tree, suggesting they "establish a moss garden." We have a good patch of moss. How can I encourage the growth and spread of the moss?
A We are getting a bit late in the season to start moving moss, but you have two options that work well in the spring and late summer/early fall. You can transplant some moss or divide what you have and replant, or you can mix up a slurry of moss. To make a slurry, use an old blender to mix equal parts of moss and beer or buttermilk. Add a tablespoon of dried clay like that used for making ceramics (found at most craft stores). Pour the slurry on compacted soil in the shade and keep it moist. The moss should sprout and begin to spread.
Q I have successfully overwintered some very large lantanas but also continue to lose a few each winter. A friend suggested that "Lady Luck" is a main factor. How severely does one cut back a lantana prior to mulching? And do you have any suggestions on winter preparation? Would covering them with plastic be of any benefit?
A I would say more like Mother Nature versus Lady Luck. A lot has to do with how cold it gets and for how long. Lantana is an iffy perennial in central Arkansas, a pretty well proven perennial in south Arkansas but definitely an annual in the northwestern region of the state -- unless you are growing a hardy variety like "Miss Huff." Some folks don't cut back their plants until spring, thinking the dead top debris adds to their layer of mulch, while others cut back in the fall and then mulch. Whichever method you use, let the plant experience a killing frost before you add the extra mulch. If you mulch the plant before it goes dormant, it will rot during the winter. How wet our winter is and how well drained your site is can also play a role in winter survival. Sitting in wet soil can also cause the root system to rot. Plastic is not my recommendation -- something breathable is best -- a large cardboard box or something similar. But in reality, lantanas are readily available to plant each season, so in a worst-case scenario, you are supporting the green industry by buying new plants.
Q I wonder if you could help me figure out what is going on with my Leyland cypress trees. There are a lot of brown branches throughout them. The damage seems to be random. They are about 10 years old, and prior to this they have always been healthy.
A Leyland cypress trees are affected by several canker diseases. It typically starts appearing at 7 to 9 years of age, and typically you begin to see dying limbs scattered throughout the tree. Pruning them out as soon as you see them can help, but there really isn't any spray program that will cure the disease. If you look closely on the stem beneath where you see browning, the cankers will appear as sunken, dark brown or purplish patches on the bark, sometimes accompanied by resin (sap) flow. This is fairly common on these plants, which is one of the reasons I no longer recommend using them. That doesn't help you, I know. Hopefully you can prune out the damage and slow it down.
Q I have this plant in my backyard and was told by local residents that it was simply called a "Cat's Paw." It seems to prefer the shade of another tree. Any information you could provide would be appreciated.
A Cat's Paw is a new name for me. The plant in question is a native, shade-loving, deciduous shrub called Euonymus americanus. It has numerous common names including strawberry bush, hearts-a-bursting, and brook euonymus. It thrives in moist areas in the shade. In late spring, it has fairly nondescript green flowers. They are followed by small fruits that turn pink in the fall and then pop open to expose dark red or orange berries, thus the common names.
Janet B. Carson is a horticulture specialist for the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service. Write to her at 2301 S. University Ave., Little Rock, Ark. 72204 or email her at
jcarson@arkansasonline.com
HomeStyle on 10/10/2015