Q. We have high-end plans for Valentine's Day and I'm thinking about getting a black-tie or midnight-blue tuxedo, but I'm not sure.
First, I doubt, even at this restaurant, that other men will be dressed more formally than a suit.
Second, it seems like the dark blue tuxes that I like will be soon out of style, and I certainly don't want to lay out this kind of money for one or two wearings. Do you think I'm right about this style?
A. I believe the purchase of black-tie clothing for a professional man is always a wise decision. That there are still any adults with financial means who rent such clothing is confusing to me, since it is a process full of anxiety. And it's not cheap. If you have or can find occasion to dress formally as often as once every year or so, buying your own tuxedo, either a new one or one found in a vintage or "gently-used" clothing store, is a good investment.
Dressing up to your date's level is something men often avoid, insisting on wearing less-dressy clothes that do not go with or complement their partner's choice. When a man "dresses down" at a party or festive event or "high-end establishment," it can come across as insulting to the hosts as well as to his date. One does not necessarily owe anything to a restaurant he's paying good money to, but looking attractive and like you spent time and consideration is always well received.
Why miss an opportunity to look your best? You seem to understand that, and even to want to take it a step further with a modern popular style.
What you may not know about midnight-blue formal wear: It is neither trendy nor popular. As it is the only acceptable year-round black-tie alternative to a classic black evening suit, it has been part of elite dressing for years. It was very popular in the 1930s.
Today it is less common and not usual enough to be one's first (and only) choice.
While you may be one of the few men in the place so well dressed, you will be among the best looking and most comfortable in your clothing. Actually, you'll have less difficulty deciding what to wear. An advantage of black-tie attire is that it eliminates the too-many-options problem that is a big part of today's casual dressing. It's hard to go wrong with black tie; either a man wears the called-for clothes or he does not. He doesn't have to wonder whether something he plans to wear is too dressed up.
The closets of sophisticated dressers may sometimes include more than one black-tie outfit, but it really should be two or three for him to consider a midnight blue version.
ON TO QUALITY
You do not need to spend a lot, but lightweight, all-wool fabric and a good fit are critical. For years of wear and self-assurance, choose a classic style. The rules: Again, the suit is always black (unless this is the third Academy Award you've been nominated for). The shirt is always white with vertical pleats in front and French cuffs.
In summer, the jacket may be white. All else remains the same.
Suits are fashioned in one of three different collar styles: shawl, peaked or notched. Lapels are either satin, a silk-like, smooth, glossy fabric, or grosgrain (pronounced grow-grain), a heavy ribbed fabric. Grosgrain is also known as faille (pronounced file).
Along with the three types of collars, there are two types of closings: single-breasted and double-breasted. Double-breasted jackets are kept buttoned at all times. Single-breasted is the safer, and more enduring, style.
Naturally, the trousers match the fabric of the jacket; A ribbon runs down the side of the leg that matches the lapel material. Another note on trousers: This is the one time when cuffs are never worn. The style of wearing cuffs on trousers originated in England. They were called "turn-ups." They resulted from a man's turning up the bottoms of his trousers to protect them from soiling as he walked around his country estate.
Socks are black and to-the-calf or over-the-calf length. Shoes are black and shiny -- either they are the material that is correct only for formal wear, patent leather, or they are the almost as acceptable well-shined calf.
Make the women in your life happy and do yourself a favor: Buy a dashing set of black-tie wear; wear it whenever an appropriate occasion occurs and collect compliments, and discover just how good it makes you feel.
If you own Jaguars in two colors, then the second shade of tuxedo may be a good choice.
Send men's fashion queries to Male Call:
Lois.Fenton@prodigy.net
High Profile on 02/07/2016