Made with love

Charming your valentine is a piece of cake

“Say it with chocolate” seems to be one of the most popular themes of Valentine’s Day, and for very good reasons. Chocolate, so luscious and sweet, is one of the world’s most popular flavors. Studies have shown that naturally occurring substances in chocolate actually make us feel better, happier and maybe even more romantic. And the sugar and cocoa butter that chocolate contains are not only incredibly satisfying, but also create a deep desire for more of it. No wonder we associate chocolate so closely with love.

I proudly admit that I love chocolate. If I cross paths with a chocolate dessert in one of my restaurants, I can’t resist having a taste. And it has been that way since I was a young boy. So when anybody asks me what I think they should make if they’re planning to cook a special Valentine’s Day meal for someone they love, I don’t hesitate to suggest something with chocolate. It’s the choice most likely to bring joy and spark romance.

That’s why I’d like to share one of my favorite chocolate recipes. It’s an intense, almost fudgy cake that you can flavor with a splash of your favorite spirit. I use bourbon because its mellow, almost caramelized flavor goes so well with the star ingredient, but you could substitute scotch or even a favorite sweet after-dinner drink such as orange Cointreau, cherry-flavored kirsch or even peppermint schnapps.

Most important, of course, is the chocolate itself. For the best flavor, I like to use a good-quality European brand with a cacao content of 65 to 70 percent, such as those made by Valrhona or Callebaut. It’s also important to melt the chocolate gently; that will prevent it from burning or seizing up and becoming unworkable.

To make the holiday even more special, I’ve also included a recipe for an easy-to-make sauce you can drizzle over each serving. I flavor the sauce with a shot of espresso coffee and a touch of cinnamon, but feel free to substitute your, or your Valentine’s, own favorite flavors for a romantic end to a meal that neither of you will forget.

BOURBON CHOCOLATE CAKE WITH CHOCOLATE ESPRESSO SAUCE

Makes 8 to 10 servings

Ingredients:

3/4 cup unsalted butter, plus 1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons more for greasing, at room temperature

10 1/2 ounces bittersweet chocolate (65 percent to 70 percent cacao content), chopped

1 1/4 cups sugar

4 large cage-free eggs, separated

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

3 to 4 tablespoons bourbon (optional)

1 1/4 cups cake flour or pastry flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

Pinch of salt

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

Chocolate Espresso Sauce (recipe follows)

Directions:

Position an oven rack in the center of the oven, and heat to 350 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Using 1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons of the butter, grease the inside of an 8-by-3-inch ring mold. Set it on the parchment-lined sheet.

Put the chopped chocolate in a medium stainless-steel bowl. Set over a saucepan of gently simmering water, taking care not to let the water touch the bottom of the bowl. Stir occasionally until most of the chocolate melts. Remove the bowl to a work surface, and stir the chocolate until smoothly melted.

Using an electric mixer at medium-to-high speed, beat 3/4 cup of the remaining butter and 1 cup of the sugar in a large bowl until light and fluffy. Beat in 1 egg yolk at a time, then the vanilla, scraping down the bowl as needed. At low speed, gradually beat in the melted chocolate, then 3 to 4 tablespoons bourbon, as desired. Sift the flour and baking soda into a small bowl; then gradually beat into the batter.

In a large, clean bowl, using clean, dry beaters, beat the egg whites and a pinch of salt until very foamy. Gradually add the remaining 1/4 cup of sugar, beating until soft peaks form. Fold a third of the egg whites into the batter to lighten. Fold in the remaining egg whites in two more batches.

Scrape the batter into the prepared mold. Hold the ring and baking sheet together, and rap sharply on the work surface to settle the batter. Bake until the batter has risen to fill the mold completely and is crusty on top, about 1 hour.

Invert a plate or cardboard round over the cake. Hold together the baking sheet and plate, and turn over so the baking sheet is on top and the cake is on the plate. Lift off the sheet, and peel off the parchment, leaving the cake in the ring. Cut around the cake in the ring mold. Let the cake cool completely, about 2 hours. Then turn out onto a plate.

Lift off the ring, and sift confectioners’ sugar over the cake. Cut into wedges. Serve with Chocolate Espresso Sauce.

CHOCOLATE ESPRESSO SAUCE

Makes about 3 cups

Ingredients:

10 ounces bittersweet chocolate (65 percent to 70 percent cacao), chopped

2 cups heavy cream

1/4 cup freshly made espresso coffee, or very strong coffee

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional)

Directions:

Put the chocolate in a glass or stainless-steel bowl. Pour the cream into a saucepan, and bring barely to a boil. Pour the cream over the chocolate. Let stand until the cream softens the chocolate, about 1 minute.

Add the espresso and, if you like, 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon. Whisk to blend, scraping down the bowl as needed. Taste, and if you like, whisk in more cinnamon. Use immediately. Or transfer to a 4-cup container, cool, cover and refrigerate. Warm over low heat before serving.

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