Q. I have an issue with sock length and comfort. Whenever I find dress socks that are long enough that I can be sure no skin will show when I sit and cross my legs, they are very tight and cut off my circulation a bit. The comfortable, but not loose, ones tend to be only ankle high. Is this just reality in the post old-fashioned garters era, or is there a solution?
A. You are right that it is indeed difficult to find dress socks (that is, dark over-the-calf length socks) that are not too thick, that are not too loose (so they fall down), or too tight.
Go to a good store. Since the cheaper manufacturers don't even make over-the-calf socks anymore, a good store is the only place you will find them. At quality stores, men's dress socks cost about $30, and are usually worth the investment. At $10, the manufacturer is not putting the same care and expertise into the manufacturing process.
When you go into a fine store, a lot of good salespeople would say to you, "Try one pair first." When a man finds that he likes a certain sock from a certain maker and from a certain store, then he goes back and buys more. If the socks stay up, are comfortable and do what you are looking for, you won't mind paying so much for a few more pairs. Sometimes you can find top-of-the-line brands on sale. It's probably ideal to own enough pairs to get you through one week.
The better brands, such as Ralph Lauren and Pantherella, are made of natural fibers up to the calf muscle, then the manufacturer puts Lycra at the top and often a small percentage of nylon in the toe and heel for reinforcement.
It helps to know some sock terminology, especially when discussing lengths. "Over-the-calf" length is the longest and the dressiest. This conservative length is the hardest to find and is not as popular as it once was. "To-the-calf" (also known as "mid-calf") length is a bit shorter. Both these lengths are considered dress socks. "Crew" length is a shorter length that covers the ankle, but not by enough to constitute true dress socks. If you're wondering why you can't just wear them for dress, the answer is that not only are they too short and often too bulky, but they are usually white, rather than a dark color.
For more casual days, when a full over-the-calf dark dress sock may not be required, it is much easier to find affordable socks that are not tight, are comfortable, and will stay up. Crew lengths are widely available at fine stores, at clothing outlets and online. In addition, some of them are actually therapeutic and diabetic-friendly.
Because fine dress socks are expensive, you want to take care of them so they will last a long time. No throwing them into the washer with all your other laundry and hoping for the best. The finest men's socks are made of natural fibers (cotton, merino wool, cashmere or silk), and, as such, need to be laundered with care. Use very little detergent in a cool wash and line-dry them.
If you don't do your own laundry, make sure the person who does yours never puts your socks in the dryer. Not only does a dryer play havoc with fine socks by shrinking them, but it also ruins whatever form of elastic is used in the top to hold the sock up. Line drying does not have to be a big deal. You can just drape a few pairs over the crossbar of a hanger and allow them to dry at their own speed.
Pantherella of England is a luxury brand known the world over for its meticulously crafted, hand-finished socks made of the very best natural fibers. Fine-gauge yarns are spun to create men's socks tested for shrink resistance, perfect tension, and stretch. They are lightweight and have a seamless toe.
Brooks Brothers carries a style they call "garter sized" socks, that come in actual sizes (that is, not one-size-fits-most). Made of 90 percent merino wool and 10 percent nylon, they come in black, gray, brown and navy, and cost $29.95. Twice a year the store discounts the price if you buy three or more pairs.
Gold Toe brand makes a less expensive midweight wool, over-the-calf length that is a perfect year-round sock.
I found a few sock brand names that are not widely known. One, called Loose Fit Stays Up, comes in black as well as white, but is only available in crew style. A website called SocksAddict.com carries many brands, including Darn Tough, whose high-level performance socks have an elastic arch support knit into the sock and a ring toe construction with a comfortable, invisible seam. Their socks are made in Vermont and guaranteed for life -- no questions asked.
Incidentally, the most sure-fire, safe color rule for socks is this: When in doubt, match the color of the socks to the color of the trousers.
Send fashion queries to Male Call:
Lois.Fenton@prodigy.net
High Profile on 07/03/2016