Q. I have my first post-college full-time job and it is a nonprofit, so I'm not profiting much myself. I need some somewhat professional (jacket, maybe some ties, but not a suit) clothing beyond my interview sets but I have very little money for now. What are my best approaches?
A. Clothes shopping is not a skill that comes naturally to most men. But it is one that can be learned.
You won't be able to afford the best (or even the second-best) men's specialty shops in town, but browsing there could be time well spent. These stores are full of useful information; you can learn from the examples they display and from the knowledgeable salespeople who work there.
Before you go to a store, the very first step you can take is to collect a couple of fine stores' catalogs. This is the best way to study what clothes go well together and what clothes look all wrong. Even if you cannot shop in those stores, the pictures will help you find something similar.
Other useful catalogs are ones that arrive in the mail from Lands' End, L.L. Bean, J. Crew, and any other company that sells clothes you like. Check the photos and tear out the pages that appeal to you. Showing (or telling) the salesperson what you're after will help him find you something you like.
• Shop in a store where you feel comfortable.
Especially during one of their great seasonal sales when you get more for your money than you normally would, such as Jos. A. Bank, where you can often buy one and get one (or more) items free.
• Choose the right salesperson.
When you walk into a store, one salesperson will approach you. In retailers' parlance, the man who is "up" gets the next customer. But you are in no way obligated to follow the store's system of rotation.
Unless you are immediately impressed with the salesman's manner and the way he is dressed, do not accept his offer to help you. "No thanks, I'm just looking" is what you say. Observe the other salespeople. If you admire the look and style and manner of one salesman, wait until he is available. Then you approach him. Let him dress you the way you want to look.
• Buy clothes that fit.
It's easy to know when clothes are too tight, but it's trickier to figure out if clothes are too big. You should know that today everything in men's clothing tends to be narrower and slimmer. Suits and sport jackets are cut trimmer, closer to the body, and a fraction shorter than they were a few years ago. Clothes that are even a shade too full or too long look dated.
• Be sure to have any needed alterations made.
Many men do not bother getting their pants and sleeves hemmed so they fit exactly right. Alterations are not expensive, but your clothes look a hundred times better when they fit as if they were tailor-made for you. Most stores have their own, but if not, find a local tailor.
• Wear appropriate clothing when shopping.
• Wear clothes that are easy to get on and off because (even though men hate this part) trying clothes on is the only way you will really know what looks good on you and what fits you perfectly. Men don't always realize that a hanger does not accurately reflect the way a shirt will actually look. If you aren't sure, try it on.
• Wear, or take, appropriate shoes.
When shopping for pants, knowing if the pants are the correct length depends on the type of shoes you will be wearing with those pants. Don't buy dress pants based on the way they look in your sneakers or work boots. If you do not want to take dress shoes with you, you can ask the salesperson to get you a pair to wear while the tailor is fitting you. That's a trick that well-dressed men have used for years.
There are several ways to get more for your money when shopping:
1.) Buy in a quality store that puts classic items on sale
2.) Shop in a discount store. But remember, in a discount store there will be no one there to give you advice.
3.) Shop in a consignment shop or gently used clothing store
4.) Shop online.
A bargain is not a bargain if it does not serve your purpose. A jacket must fit perfectly in the shoulders, or it should not be bought. But a tie (or a pocket square) is a smart item to buy at a bargain price. It does not need to fit; it only has to be handsome and in good taste. Should you happen to find a beautiful, expensive designer tie that costs $2 in a consignment shop or $6 online from eBay, and its only problem is that it is too wide for today's style, it is certainly worth paying $26.50 to have it made narrower, instead of $150 at an upscale men's shop. Contact a local tailor who specializes in ties or Tie Crafters, the tie-slimming and tie-cleaning professionals; they have been in business for more than 60 years: (212) 629-5800.
If you find a store where you feel comfortable and the salespeople give you useful information, then when you're ready to shop again to add to your wardrobe, you can revisit with confidence.
Send fashion queries to Male Call:
LoisFenton@prodigy.net
High Profile on 07/17/2016