Q. I have a very good black blazer that I need help with matching advice. The only combinations I can come up with are red and white (white shirts or white-and-red striped shirts with red and black ties) or shades of gray and white. I know blue works with black, but I look like a police officer when I wear that combination. What else would work? I really would like a large set of options with this (and an older lesser quality charcoal blazer), but I can't afford dozens of shirts and ties.
A. Those are fine combinations, but there definitely are lots of other options. Because black is such a neutral, you have many possibilities. You don't need dozens of shirts and ties. If you make a few smart choices, you can have multiple combinations.
To begin, let's go back to your mention of a white shirt. This really is one of the best looks with a black blazer (or a black suit), but it certainly does not have to be paired with red. In fact, with a black jacket and white shirt, there are dozens of ways to go for your necktie selections.
One is to stay with the black-and-white theme. You can merely wear a white shirt with a solid black tie. Or, you can seek out ties that combine black and white. Here are a few choices: a debonair black and white diagonal stripe; a black background tie with a small white polka-dot or a smaller white pindot for a boardroom look; a crisp black and white foulard with a small, all-over design; or an interesting black and white paisley for a less formal effect.
On the other hand, a white shirt allows you to introduce almost any color necktie you like from a dressy ice-blue satin to a dark burgundy. You can choose a solid or just about any slightly dressy pattern.
If you feel that a black jacket paired with a blue shirt brings to mind a policeman's uniform, then vary your blue shirt by choosing a stripe in any of several widths. A fine hairline blue and white stripe in smooth broadcloth can be a sharp, dressy look. A slightly more vivid blue and white stripe is a classic traditional look. And a bold blue and white Bengal stripe sets a sharp-dresser tone. Or, if you like, you might choose a solid blue pinpoint Oxford cloth and pair it with a very nonuniformlike tie, perhaps an elegant Hermes small geometric in red and blue or an eye-catching bright yellow.
Beyond white and blue is the whole array of light, colorful shirts. Every shade from pink and ivory to lavender will work. The one light color to skip with a black jacket is orange, especially at this time of year. I would avoid pairing most dark shirts with your black blazer except for a solid black shirt, which a lot of guys like as a "downtown" look.
Incidentally, all these mixes would work just about as well with your older charcoal jacket as with your new black blazer. As to trousers: The dressier looks go perfectly with gray flannels, the more casual ones mix nicely with camel or khaki wool dress slacks. And, of course, black shoes.
Another idea, especially if you like to stand out from the crowd, is to add a vest to your mix. Since the secret to standing out is paying attention to the little details, accessories can make big differences in very cost effective ways. Even more than a good-looking tie and a well-chosen pocket square, a vest gets noticed as something special. But it cannot be just any vest. Something like a light blue flat-knit V-neck sweater vest or a quiet gray merino wool knit would be great. Whereas, a choice along the lines of a nubby wool argyle sweater is a highly casual accessory, and should not be paired with a black blazer. This would be an example of that proverbial mixing of apples and oranges, an incompatible duo.
It is important to realize that a black blazer projects quite a dressy air. Yes, as a blazer, it is less dressy than a suit, but not a great deal less. So, if you were on an interview for a professor or art director position, rather than a bank exec or lawyer, you might wear a black blazer ... but, if you were my son, I'd still tell you to wear a suit ... and sit up straight ... and get a haircut and your shoes polished.
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High Profile on 10/16/2016