RESTAURANT REVIEW + PHOTOS: Zalads, fingerz the best 'betz' at Zaxby's in west Little Rock

Zee thing one first notices about Zaxby's new -- and only -- Little Rock location on Kanis Drive that opened earlier this month is its affection for the letter "z."

Many items on the fast-casual chicken restaurant's menu feature the consonant, whether it's Chicken Fingerz, Zappetizers or Zalads (although, for whatever reason, we'd guess trademark, it just refers to its boneless and traditional Buffalo items as "wings" and not "wingz").

The second thing one notices is the clean rustic-chic space (the chain's "modern farmhouse" design; its first west of the Mississippi River) with a variety of seating options: countertop, regular and curved booths and regular tables. Clear glass jug pendant lights add class while lighted marquee lettering -- words like "Cravelicious" and "Good Eats" -- adds whimsy, if sometimes confusion.

"Left ovens?" I asked my dining companion while reading a sign during our one eat-in visit. Is a "left" oven better than a "right" oven? Is this a political statement?

"Left overs," he corrected. Oh, oops. Maybe I need new corrective lenses. Still, I must correct Zaxby's: Leftovers is one word.

Speaking of corrective lenses, without them, I couldn't read the menu board at the counter (which doesn't describe dishes like the Zalads at all, nor does the drive-through board, requiring new staff members to answer ingredient questions). And if there were paper menus available, we didn't see them.

We ordered at the counter where the menu board had a seasonal snowfall effect and Christmas music brought cheer to a gray, chilly day. We ordered the Fried White Cheese Bites as a Zappetizer ($3.79), to accompany our Chicken Fingerz Plate, Cobb Zalad and Chicken Salad Sandwich. But it all was ready for us to retrieve at the counter at the very zame time.

The battered nuggets of cheese, served with a plastic cup of marinara, were like something straight out of the State Fair, in a good way. Other Zapps ($2.99-$3.99) include onion rings, Spicy Fried Mushrooms, Tater Chips and Buffalo Dip & Tater Chips.

My companion gave thumbs up to his meal of Chicken Fingerz ($7.49 for four up to $9.69 for six; comes with fries, cole slaw, Texas toast and drink), which were rather juicy and decently seasoned. Someone in the kitchen went crazy with the seasoned salt on the crinkle fries. The meal also included standard cole slaw, a thick and thickly buttered buttery slice of Texas toast and a packet of Zax Sauce, a spiced ketchup/mayo concoction for dipping akin to what some parts of the country call "fry sauce." Fingerz sold separately cost $9.99 for 10, $19.99 for 20.

Not knowing the size of the Zalads (huge) and wanting to try the chicken salad spread, I picked the grilled version of The Cobb ($7.79), with a chicken salad sandwich meal ($6.79, served with fries and drink). All my attention went to The Cobb, a large and lovely array of greens, tomatoes, cheese, cucumbers, bacon, boiled eggs and tender, tasty grilled chicken, served with choice of packet dressing. (I chose blue cheese, as there are no crumbles in this Cobb.)

The sandwich of bland chicken salad, however, was sad, in need of serious seasoning. I only took two about two bites before deciding I was done and did not need a box for the "left ovens." (Want a better chicken salad sandwich? We suggest visiting Panera Bread next door.)

The best part of dining in the restaurant is the childlike fun of playing with the Coca-Cola Freestyle machine, with all its rare sodas and combinations. Normally I scroll through all the many options and still end up choosing a Diet Dr Pepper. But this time I branched out with the fake-sweetly satisfying Diet Barq's Creme Soda in vanilla, promising myself future trips back for the orange, strawberry and peach versions.

Other visits to Zaxby's were carryout (mobile ordering is not available just yet) made via the drive-through, which gets busy during peak hours but moves rather quickly. Maybe it moves too quickly; I made two trips with communication problems that resulted in errors.

When I ordered a blackened version of The Blue Zalad ($7.79), which the website describes as containing "mixed greens, red cabbage, carrots, Roma tomatoes, blue cheese crumbles, fried onions and blackened chicken with Texas Toast," I requested no onions nor toast. They left those out, but they -- wah! -- also left out the blue cheese for which the whole salad is named, and left me feeling blue.

An extra side of celery ordered with wings also became a problem. When the order was repeated back to me at the pay window, the celery wasn't included, but I was charged for extra dressing. Huh? Again I asked for the celery. I was asked if I wanted a side (10 sticks, $1.29) or a basket (20 sticks, $1.79). I said I wanted the 10 sticks ... but when I opened the box, there were only seven. Hmph. (A later order for a basket of 20 was correct, however; I counted.)

As for the traditional wings ($9.99 for 10; $18.99 for 20), available in sauces that range from Wimpy to Insane, as well as Hot Honey Mustard, Sweet & Spicy, Teriyaki and Barbecue, we found them decent -- nothing extraordinary, but perfectly capable of satisfying a craving. The Original sauce, rated at two flames, is probably fiery enough for most. The Nuclear, rated at three flames, has a hotness that collects in the throat; it hurts in a good way. We couldn't even consider the five-flame Insane.

For children, there are Kidz Meals ($4.29) of chicken fingers, a chicken sandwich or grilled cheese, with fries, a treat and a Kidz drink.

And, because it's the holidays, it's worth mentioning that Zaxby's also caters, for those needing a party tray like the Zampler Platter.

Note: Zaxby's holiday hours are 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Christmas Eve; closed Christmas Day; 10 a.m.-8 p.m. New Year's Eve; regular hours on New Year's Day.

Weekend on 12/21/2017