Since I first opened my “Asian fusion” restaurant Chinois on Main in Santa Monica, California, back in 1983, I have celebrated the Chinese New Year — which arrived this year last Saturday, Jan. 28, and is generally observed for seven days. We’ve always held a big feast at Chinois, and this year (designated the Year of the Rooster in the Chinese Zodiac) has been no different.
Yet I sometimes detect a little hesitancy among some of the guests, and it usually centers on the theme of New Year’s resolutions. Their reasoning seems to go something along the lines of: “I’ve been doing so well eating healthy, and I don’t want to lose my momentum so soon by overeating with another big holiday meal.”
I understand their reluctance to overdo it when faced with carb-laden noodles and crispy, deep-fried delicacies among the many dishes we serve. And yet, I always like to point out that the menu will probably feature so many lean options like steamed seafood, tender-crispy stir-fried vegetables and grilled poultry or meat. I also inform them that it is easy to adapt even traditionally rich Chinese dishes into more streamlined versions, especially if you pay special attention to include a variety of bright seasonings and contrasting textures to excite the palate.
With that in mind, I’d like to mark the Year of the Rooster by sharing my recipe for a light version of one of the all-time most popular modern Chinese-style dishes at the restaurant: Chinois Chicken Salad.
The salad becomes a model of healthiness simply by making a few minor adjustments. I cut the usual amount of oil in the dressing and include both mustard powder and a touch of honey to give it plenty of creamy body and a satisfyingly lively flavor. I eliminate the high-fat nuts and crispy noodles you might normally expect in such salads. And I add a variety of extra raw vegetables — which not only boost the nutritional value but also slow down the pace at which you eat the salad, enhancing the satisfaction it delivers with every bite. (You could add or substitute other vegetables you like, too, such as matchsticks of jicama or strips of red, orange or yellow bell pepper.)
The result is a delightful dish that gets less than a third of its calories from fat. If you want to make it even more fun for your own Chinese New Year’s party, I suggest you look in a restaurant supply store or party store for little cardboard Chinese takeout boxes in which to serve the salad, complete with chopsticks for eating it right from the box.
Here’s wishing you a happy, prosperous and healthy Year of the Rooster.
LIGHT CHINOIS CHICKEN SALAD WITH CHINESE MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE
Serves 4 as a main course, 8 as an appetizer
For the Chinese mustard vinaigrette:
1/4 cup rice vinegar
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce
2 teaspoons toasted Asian-style sesame oil
2 teaspoons dry Chinese or English mustard, such as Colman’s
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons peanut oil
For the chicken salad:
4 cups shredded cooked skinless chicken meat (from a leftover or store-bought roast or rotisserie chicken or other recipe)
4 cups shredded napa cabbage
2 cups shredded iceberg or romaine lettuce
1 cup julienned snow peas
1 cup shredded carrot
1/4 cup thinly sliced pickled sushi ginger, drained and cut into thin julienne strips
For the garnish:
1 tablespoon black or white sesame seeds, or a blend
1 scallion, trimmed and cut diagonally into thin slices
Directions:
First, prepare the Chinese mustard vinaigrette: In a blender or a food processor fitted with the stainless-steel blade, combine the rice vinegar, honey, sesame oil, dry mustard, soy sauce, and a little salt and pepper. Blend or process until smooth. With the machine running, drizzle in the peanut oil to form a thick, smooth dressing. Taste the dressing and adjust the seasonings, if necessary. Transfer the dressing to a bowl and set aside.
For the chicken salad, in a large bowl, combine the chicken, cabbage, lettuce, snow peas, carrot and ginger. Toss with enough of the vinaigrette to coat all the ingredients thoroughly.
If using white sesame seeds, toast them in a dry pan over low heat, stirring continuously, until they turn golden, about 1 minute; remove from the pan immediately. (If using black sesame seeds, use them straight from the container.)
Mound the salad mixture on chilled serving plates. Scatter the sesame seeds and scallions over each portion, and serve immediately.