Kit-ing around: Some meal subscription services deliver what they promise, others … not so much

Spicy Chicken & Carrots from Blue Apron
Spicy Chicken & Carrots from Blue Apron

For nine weeks, we said hello to Hello Fresh, donned a Blue Apron, rummaged through our Sun Basket, used our Marley Spoon, Plated a variety of dishes -- including one Peach Dish -- and became a Home Chef and a Green Chef and tinkered around Terra's Kitchen.

Which is to say, we tested out the whole kit and caboodle of popular meal kit delivery services.

And now we're delivering the details.

It's too early to say whether meal kit businesses -- which send fresh ingredients and recipes to subscribers who transform them into meals -- are just another food fad or the new frontier. Offering convenience (no grocery shopping -- the goods come to you), inspiration (their menus solve the "What's for dinner?" dilemma), exact quantities (no measuring and no waste) and easy recipes (everything takes 20-40 minutes) and a focus on nutrition (portion-controlled meals come with dietary information and can accommodate different needs), these services cater to the modern, busy, health-conscious customers who hunger for home-cooked meals.

But such subscription services have their drawbacks. First, they involve subscriptions -- they are essentially the Columbia House of food. Unless you cancel outright (which is always an easy option requiring a few online clicks) or skip weeks, you could be sent deliveries you don't want.

While all services offer deep discounts -- upfront or with coupon codes -- subsequent orders can prove quite pricey for a family on a budget (as high as $17.99 per serving). The giant boxes that the services send include bunches of plastic bags, ice packs, jars, bottles and other packaging -- not all of which can be recycled, reused or returned.

Sometimes meal choices aren't so appetizing or they include undesirable ingredients. Portion- controlled servings are great, until one realizes no waste also means -- wah! -- no leftovers, and having to cook yet again tomorrow.

Not only will subscribers do plenty of cooking (and they'll need olive oil, salt and pepper and kitchen equipment from pans and colanders to lemon zesters handy), they'll still do plenty of shopping. Even if a family orders four meals a week from a service, what will they eat the other three nights of the week ... and for lunch ... and breakfast ... and for snacks?

Sometimes after a long day, one just wants a grilled-cheese sandwich, but instead, a subscriber must prepare the Berkshire Pork & Dijon Butter with Apple & Turnip Gratin ordered a week ago when it sounded good -- before it goes bad. And, note, things do go bad. Unfortunately we were sent some sorry produce from several services. And in one case, an ingredient was missing from the box. Ultimately, what purpose is served by a delivery service that doesn't deliver?

We're reviewing services in the order that we received them and we're ranking them on a five-fork scale, taking into consideration the cuisine and value for the cost. Shipping is included unless otherwise specified.

One fork: Meh

Two forks: Mediocre

Three forks: Mmm!

Four forks: More, please!

Five forks: Magnificent!

Spoiler: No service reached our top tier. While deliveries from each service arrived on their scheduled days, adequately chilled with colorful, easy-to-follow recipes, all presented at least one problem.

BLUE APRON

What we paid: $29.94 for three meals (for two people) with an introductory offer. The 2-Person Plan is regularly $59.94 (three meals for two people; $9.99 per meal) and the Family Plan is $69.92 (two recipes for four people; $8.74 per meal) per week. Subscribers can select dietary preferences, and there are vegetarian options for the 2-Person Plan.

What we got: Roasted Pork Steam Buns, Spicy Chicken & Carrots, Seared Salmon & Fall Vegetables. Ingredients were labeled but haphazardly packaged in the box, save for the "Knickknacks" bags of smaller items for each recipe.

What we thought: The selection process for Blue Apron made us a bit blue. It offered a few menu selections, and as we made choices, other menus were automatically eliminated as a cost-control measure. We were stuck with one menu that didn't appeal. Oh well. Maybe I'd like the Brussels sprouts (though I never have before) and turnip (which I never tried before) side that came with the salmon.

One entree delighted -- the exotic Asian pork buns with a black garlic mayo and spicy cabbage slaw were different and intriguing. It didn't look like it would be much food, but it was plenty satisfying. While filling, the fatty chicken thighs, served with canned chickpeas (so much for everything being fresh), carrots and rice and two meager teaspoons of red harissa paste, had little pizzazz. And the salmon, a seemingly low-quality filet of fish served with a bitter hash of turnip (which, no, for the record, I don't like), Granny Smith apple, potato and the dreaded Brussels sprouts (which, no, for the record, I still don't like) was so disappointing the second half got tossed in the trash.

Rating: Two forks

HELLO FRESH

What we paid: $29 for three meals (for two people) with an introductory offer. The Classic Plan and Veggie Plan regularly cost $9.99 per meal (serving two or four adults); the Family Plan costs $8.74 per meal (four people).

What we got: Roasted Pork Tenderloin, Chicken Skewers, Smoky Beef and Poblano Chili in the best packaging we received. Ingredients were helpfully organized into individual boxes, and recipes were in a neat booklet.

What we thought: Hello Fresh offers six weekly Classic selections (fewer for Veggie and Family plans) and most interested us. While we've never been cauliflower enthusiasts, the potato-cauliflower mash side dish (sugar snap peas were another side) was our favorite thing about the pork tenderloin, as the tender thyme-seasoned meat was overwhelmed by a too-sour Granny Smith apple pan sauce. The chicken skewers, a lower-calorie recipe from chef Jamie Oliver, tasted fine; it was the sides -- a bulgur wheat salad overpowered by too much recommended red onion and a harsh lemon yogurt dipping sauce -- that didn't quite work. Our favorite dish was the zesty and rich beef-and-bean chili, nicely spiced with chili powder and cumin, that tasted much like my own chili. But, of course, when I put forth the effort to make chili, there's the advantage of leftovers for days.

Rating: Three forks

HOME CHEF

What we paid: $29.70 for three meals (for two people) with an introductory offer. All meals are regularly $9.95 per meal (except a featured premium dish sold at market cost); delivery is free for orders more than $45 and $10 for orders less than $45.

What we got: Spooky Turkey Cauldron Pie (a Halloween special), Pan-Seared Steak with Garlic-Tomato Sauce, and Eggplant Lasagna. Ingredients were grouped by meal (with proteins separate). And we were sent a nice binder in which to keep our recipes.

What we thought: With about 10 weekly meals to choose from, plus available add-ons (fruit, smoothies, breakfast), Home Chef offers more selections than some services. And it doesn't try too hard to be fancy; menus are fairly familiar and unfussy.

While we're not usually fans of ground turkey (and thought it needed a sprinkle of thyme from the spice drawer), we thoroughly enjoyed the autumnal turkey pot pie, and not just because we could carve a fun jack-o-lantern face out of the included puff pastry squares. Maybe the sliced garlic cloves in the tomato sauce (that really should have been minced instead) are what we remember most about the decent flat iron steak dinner -- that and our potato cakes stuck to the pan, which needed more oil than specified. Surprisingly, the simple low-calorie vegetarian eggplant, layered with artichokes, ricotta, tomato sauce, mozzarella and topped with breadcrumbs was my very favorite of all the meal kit dishes. Even without the fresh basil. Sadly, the leaves included in our box had gone bad. A complaint message to customer service yielded a $10 credit toward a future order. And we definitely plan to place one.

Rating: Four forks

MARTHA & MARLEY SPOON

What we paid: $31.50 for three meals (for two people) with an introductory offer. It regularly costs $61.50 ($10.25 per meal). A family box with three meals for four people typically costs $106.80 ($8.90 per meal). There are plans for two, three and four meals per week.

What we got: Red Lentil Curry Soup, Hoisin Chicken Cutlets, Chicken and Sausage Bake in a nicely organized box of ingredients, including a bonus whole bulb of garlic that wasn't called for in any of the recipes.

What we thought: We'd expect quality from a Martha Stewart product, and we got it. The service's seven gourmet weekly menu selections (some vegetable, some meat) struck us as some of the most palatable. The hearty one-pan chicken and Italian sausage dish with tasty fall flavors from sweet potato and fresh rosemary was a winner. We were glad we happened to have sugar on hand for the pumpkiny, gingery soup that called for a pinch (typically meal kit recipes only call for olive oil, salt and pepper). And we were glad we had a neutral oil (such as vegetable) on hand for the Asian chicken cutlets, served with buttery noodles and baby bok choy. But why weren't those things in the box -- isn't the whole point supposed to be that they provide all the ingredients?

Rating: Three forks

PEACH DISH

What we paid: $40 for two meals (for two people) with an introductory offer, but we were refunded $20 for bad produce. A typical box of two meals for two people is $50 ($12.50 per meal). Two dishes for four people cost $90 ($11.25 per meal).

What we got: Pan-Fried Pork Chop With Herbed Drop-Noodles and Shrimp and Grits. The box featured a friendly welcome letter, ingredients organized into colorful mesh bags, proteins at the bottom and extras, including cookies and fruit.

What we thought: We wanted to love the Atlanta-based Peach Dish, as it emphasizes Southern recipes and suppliers. But we had two disappointing dinners, due to bad spinach with the pork and shells in our shrimp. The customer service was hospitable, however. We not only received half our money back, the president of the company wrote a letter of apology specifically about the shrimp and included an additional discount on future orders. We are not likely to use it. A smaller outfit, Peach Dish is one of the most expensive we tried.

Rating: One fork

PLATED

What we paid: $24 for two meals (for two people) with an introductory offer, but it was eventually refunded due to a bad ingredient. The regular price of two dinners for two people is $48 per week ($12 per meal) plus $6 shipping (which really makes it $13.50 per meal). Free shipping on boxes more than $50. With an emphasis on more sophisticated fare, plans are tailored to two people rather than families.

What we got: Steak Frites, Gnocchi in Parmesan Broth.

What we thought: The Steak Frites featured decent beef (which kind of steak, we're not sure -- it wasn't specified) with oven-baked "frites" or potatoes and sauteed spinach with sliced garlic (we minced instead) and a "creamy shallot sauce," which, relying on reduced-fat sour cream, wasn't so creamy. So much for the gnocchi's Parmesan broth -- our cheese arrived with specks of green mold in it. When we first contacted the company, a representative only offered a credit to our Plated account. After I insisted that we would not be using the service again and wanted a partial refund, the representative eventually gave me a full refund.

Rating: Two forks

GREEN CHEF

What we paid: $29.98 for three "omnivore" meals (for two people) with an introductory offer. Normally three omnivore meals for two people would cost $71.94 ($11.99 per person), plus a $9-per-box shipping charge (making it more like $13.49 per meal). Family omnivore plan also costs $11.99 per meal plus shipping. Green Chef, an organic outfit, also offers vegetarian, vegan, carnivore, gluten-free and Paleo menus, with selections ranging from $10.49-$14.99 per meal, plus shipping.

What we got: Salisbury Steak Meatloaf, Shrimp 'N' Grits, Herbed Chicken. All ingredients were color-coded for easy organization.

What we thought: Oh! No! What are we going to do with all this food? We, in a moment of confusion, ordered this service and our next service (Sun Basket) the very same week. Oh, and to make it all worse, that week happened to be Thanksgiving. But this raises two important meal kit subscription issues: scheduling and special occasions. There are weeks you won't want a delivery, and there are weeks that things like holidays (and spontaneous invitations, happy hours and family dinners) pop up. Unless you have the foresight to cancel, expect unwanted food at inconvenient times.

We did make the hearty, herb-y meatloaf, with a mushroom gravy, potato and parsnip mash and broccoli, and we did make the smoky shrimp and cheesy grits, which would have been delicious without the bitter collard greens included.

But we (for shame) never got around to making the chicken with "stuffin' muffins," carrots and cranberry pan sauce, which sounded way too close to the Thanksgiving dinner and leftovers we had eaten. We saved what we could (the two chicken breasts, the herbs, the egg and packaged nuts and dried cranberries) for use another time.

Rating: Three forks

SUN BASKET

What we paid: $38.94 for three meals (for two people) with an introductory offer. The regular cost for that plan is $74.93; the four-person plan is $143.87 for three meals. Meals are $11.49 each (which includes a $5.99 delivery fee). Promising the "freshest farm-to-table food," Sun Basket offers Paleo, gluten-free, dairy-free, vegetarian, soy-free and breakfast plans.

What we got: Middle Eastern Lamb-Beef Patties, Roast Chicken Breasts and Roast Pork in a well-packed box.

What we thought: Again, we erred by ordering this service in the same week that Green Chef and Thanksgiving arrived. There was more food than we knew what to do with. The pork blade steaks, which were to be served with pears, kale and shallot-maple jam, are still in the freezer.

The burgers had a grainy consistency and weren't helped by the musty spice blend, nor the fruit chutney; the best part of the meal -- go figure -- was the cauliflower rice. The chicken, accented with a piquant premade artichoke romenesco sauce and plated with a garlicky sweet potato/kale medley, made a swift, simple and satisfying meal.

Rating: Three forks

TERRA'S KITCHEN

What we paid: $33.94 for three meals (for two people) with an introductory offer, but it was refunded because of bad and missing ingredients. Pricing varies widely, with two-serving items ranging from $9.99 to $17.99 each with free shipping. A minimum of $64.99 per order is required. Terra's also has the biggest selection of choices with 50 (!) meals offered, and that's not including extras such as smoothies, salads, snacks, juices, proteins and pastas that can be added.

What we got: Beef Ragu with Spinach-Parmesan Polenta, Swedish Meatballs, Seared Chicken with Creamy Avocado Basil Pasta. And got a backache from Terra's climate-controlled "vessel." Instead of disposable boxes, Terra's relies on giant -- and heavy -- reusable drawered contraption with ice packs. These vessels can be left out for pickup the next business day (but because it arrived on a Friday, it was a doorstep eyesore/obstacle for three days). When packed, our vessel weighed more than 40 pounds. We would never recommend this service to anyone with lifting limitations.

What we thought: Unfortunately, there were some problems with the food too. Rotten basil ruined not just one but two recipes. And there was no Parmesan. Without cheese and herbs, the ragu/polenta dish was boring. And between the bad basil and a rock-hard avocado, we never made the chicken and pasta dish but used the salvageable ingredients separately. The Swedish Meatballs with a mushroom-and-onion gravy over whole wheat pasta was satisfactory. Customer service, however, was super. We did receive prompt responses and a full refund.

Rating: One fork

...

In conclusion, after more than two months of meal kit shipments, I was ready for a break. But I somewhat miss having someone else planning and shopping for dinner. I somewhat miss being spoiled by the delivery service (the spoiled produce, however, not so much).

Still, for now this Miss is content with fixing a grilled-cheese sandwich.

Style on 01/10/2017

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Red Lentil Curry Soup from Martha & Marley Spoon

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Roasted Pork Tenderloin from Hello Fresh

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Shrimp and Grits from Peach Dish

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Steak Frites from Plated

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Eggplant Lasagna from Home Chef

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Beef Ragu with Spinach-Parmesan Polenta from Terra’s Kitchen

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A recipe card from Sun Basket details how to prepare Middle Eastern Lamb-Beef Patties.

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Instructions on how to prepare Middle Eastern Lamb-Beef Patties.

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Salisbury Steak Meatloaf from Green Chef

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