MALE CALL

Dress shoes need special care to keep them clean and shiny

Q I have had my church/work shoes repaired many times and shined at my local shop. And other shoes or sneakers I've worn until they look bad and then moved them to messy work shoes. But recently I've added dress-down Friday options and have no idea what to do about "wear and tear." Do I take them to the same guy?

A Young men who have primarily been wearing sneakers most of their lives and are not used to buying dress shoes beyond the traditional are not likely to know much about less traditional footwear. Whether suedes, nonleather boots/shoes, or casual options such as upscale canvas deck shoes or the newer dress sneakers, many have no idea how or whether to care for them, particularly if they are higher-end "casual" shoes. Here are a few products to introduce you to an elevated level of shoe care; protecting shoes against possible harm, and also follow-up attention.

Shoe trees: These keep the structure of the shoe intact. They hold shoes in their correct shape; they prevent the toe box (the soft top front of the shoe) from sinking in. So, if shoes get wet, they will dry out correctly and keep the leather from cracking by wicking away moisture. Wooden shoe trees absorb and help to dry out the lining of the shoes as well. They soak up all types of moisture from rain to perspiration. Good ones are not cheap, but they are worth the investment and last forever.

• Shoe trees are made of a few different materials, but cedar wood is definitely the best one to use. Not only is cedar absorbent, but natural cedar is an effective odor repellent.

• The spring type is the better type. The right size is essential in choosing the right shoe tree for any shoe. Especially for suede shoes, be sure the shoe tree is not too big, so you don't overstretch the suede material. You don't want to have to pull on it or yank it out.

Heel and sole edge dressing: In a variety of colors, this is used to do just what its name suggests. It replenishes and refreshes the color that often fades or wears off the heel and sole edge of the shoe due to scuffing and regular wear. The first things that go wrong on a shoe, especially in city wear, are these edges. Colors include burgundy, chile, walnut, black and brown.

White duster bags: Keep your fine shoes and boots in these simple cloth bags with drawstring closures. Darker colored bags might bleed and discolor suede. Another handy device for suede shoes is a suede brush, or even a simple lint roller. The roller also works on velvet evening slippers.

Reptile/skin cleaner: These specialty products are inexpensive polishes that help you care for alligator, lizard, crocodile and other skin boots. (I say "boots" specifically because my personal prejudice is that exotic skins are fine for men's belts, wallets and boots, but not really elegant -- if not almost gangster-like -- for men's shoes.)

Neutral color polish: This is the variety used for any light-colored shoe and also for two-toned shoes, such as saddle shoes and spectators (where the use of a dark colored polish might accidentally get onto the lighter part of the shoe and ruin the design). Some suggest using a cotton swab to apply colored shoe cream to any leather that adjoins a different/lighter color, but I feel that can be risky if you are not exceptionally careful when applying each color.

Rain and stain remover: Rain and snow tend to deposit salt on shoes, which leaves a white film on them. When you get caught in the rain, as soon as possible, put the cedar shoe trees in your shoes and allow them to dry. Once the shoes are dry, address the problem immediately with this product.

Patent leather: First, I must explain that the only acceptable patent leather shoes in a well-dressed man's wardrobe is a pair of black formal shoes. Therefore, they are not likely to get particularly dirty. But, if they do need cleaning, begin by wiping off any dirt with a very slightly damp cloth; then buff with a clean cloth.

Speed polish: This is a combination of a wax and a cream. If you are only using a wax, you are going to dry out the leather. Cream moisturizes the shoe. So basically shoes need both, but you can get away with this one product.

Some people are harder on shoes than others; they wear out their shoes faster. Pay attention to your shoes. You may only need a new pair of heels. Check out the soles of your shoes: if the grooves on the bottoms are smoothing out, it's time to have them resoled. It is not too late. Don't wait until the insoles are shot and beyond your regular repair guy's skill.

Please send your men's dress and grooming questions to MALE CALL:

Lois.Fenton@prodigy.net

High Profile on 08/04/2019

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